Sichuan: October 2008
My second trip took place between the 6 and 16 October. I found a
contact in Chengdu, Sichuan thanks to
birdingpal.
Geraint Francis
is English, married with a Chinese and know very well the Sichuan. With
his wife, he funds a professional bird service tour since one year. The
price is reasonable for this kind of service: 800 YUAN (75
à 80 €) per day and per person for guiding,
translator and
car. You have to add 150
YUAN for their expenses plus your own food, hotel,
petrol,
fees which is reasonable for European, at least for the
moment! I
book my flight ticket thanks to
http://www.elong.net.
I arrived very late Friday 10 October to Chengdu. We drove around 3
hours to Emei a tourist place with a lot of hotel. We paid 50
YUAN
the room. It's the Chinese price although the price for foreigner is
usually 300 YUAN!
In the morning we did 2 short walks
around Emei, one leading to a
beautiful Buddhist Temple. In the middle of the afternoon we took the
direction to the Wawu San Reserve and we arrive for Lunch.
Unfortunately the Reserve is close due to collapse of stones on the
road! Since the Earthquake, there is a lot of rain until the last day
and the slopes of the moutains are very tight in the place which give
some wonderful scenery in fact... We had to drive to another reserve we
join after almost another 4 hours drive:
Laba He or in English Erlang Mountain National Forest Park.. We arrived
around 5pm and although there is some landslips too, we can enter in this one fortunately! All this drive will be
reward by 2
Golden Eagles, 1
Yellow-legged Buttonquail (1 lifer for the
Guide) and 4 Sambas, a kind of Deer. As the place is a kind of luxury
site, the room was around 200 YUAN, 20 €...
The next day, we started an 8 hours walks at 7:00 am at an altitude
around 2000m, surrounding by mountains up to 4000, 4500m. Although
cloudy we were lucky to be able to see the impressive scenery from time
to time. All the birds are new for me and this wonderful place is
populating with
Squirrels and
Tibetan Short-tailed Macaques and even the 2
species of Pandas. The Giant Panda lives at very high altitude at this
period of time and there is no way to see it... The
Red Panda is quite
secretive and the guides never saw it... but we were incredibly lucky
to find one!!! The return to Chengdu will be without any problem even
if driving in China is always an unexpected experience!
Now, I have really the wish to visit more in depth the Sichuan
with my wife and particularly the Tibet Sichuan with its moutains up to
7000m described several times by Geraint (Cid). I don't know if we will be
able to do that but I think at least I will do again a weekend in
November... So if you want to do a fantastic birds trip in an
incridible country, this is probably a must as a destination and
Geraint and is wife a truly recommendable guides...
Sichuan: November 2008
I visited again the Sichuan with
Cid and Maggie
between the 8 and the 9 November. This time I arrived a little bit
earlier which allow us to went to
Moxi around 400 km West of Chengdu.
We arrived around 1:00 and although I was very tired it was very
difficult to sleep: we were already around 2000m above the sea!
The weather was good with a very blue sky in the morning and
becoming cloudier in the afternoon. We started to drive until the
top of the road around 4000m! We made a lot of stop at different level
and saw a lot of very interesting species:
Elliot's Laughingthrush
everywhere at lower level,
Vinaceous Rosefinch,
Chinese
Babax,
Hodgson's Redstart first and higher
Blue-fronted Redstart,
a big flock with
Streak-throated Fulvetta,
Gray-cheeked Fulvetta,
Père David's Tit,
Coal Tit,
Gray-crested Tit,
Stripe-throated Yuhina,
White-browed Bush-Robin,
Sichuan
Treecreeper and a lot of others in other place! Moreover the landscapes were terrific
with peak around 6000m and even 7000 for one! At the top around 4000m,
we did a walk to a pond almost already frozen. We were rewarded of our
big effort by 1 Lammergeier and 1
Himalayan Griffon. The effect of the
altitude without preparation was amazing starting by the feeling to be
a little drunk and a headache I kept all the afternoon...
We had a lunch almost around 3:00 pm in the other side of the mountain.
Then we continue a little bit trying to find
Grandala we saw
flying during our break. We were lucky to find hundreds of birds eating
and drinking and finally quite familiar we us! We came back for diner
to Moxi and after the log we went to sleep very early as all of us were
very tired! Fortunately, this time I had no problem for sleeping...
The day after we drove in direction back to Chengdu, making several
stop for birds. The weather was without rain but with clouds above
3000m. The first stops gave some interesting birds like
Little Bunting,
Godlewski's Bunting,
Little Forktail and
Eurasian Crag-Martin.
Unfortunately the remaining day, the birds were very shy and we saw
very few of them although in some case we were in very good place like
the Old Erlang Road... We finished the weekend on the short
Tea Horse
Trail (Taiw Quaw) without more success: at the end only 32 species (against 40 the previous day) most
of them saw in the villages: it's very strange sometimes when you look for
birds! That was a nice day however and the Sichuan definitely needs a
longer trip to be correctly discovered!
Jiangxi: Poyang lake, December 2008
For this last business trip of 2
weeks, I asked Steven met in Sanyang in June to try to organize a trip
for the weekend with the fact that I was ready to pay for a car and a
driver if needed. He had the very good idea to contact a professional
birder and photographer, Lao Lin, leaving in Nanchang in the Jiangxi
Province. This town is 4 hours by train from Wuhan and it is very close
to one of the most famous birding place in China:
Poyang Lake
and its 4 species of Crane in winter! Although Lao Lin doesn't speak
English, he has the habit to guide in this area and a friend sent to me
his email few months ago before my first trip.
So, Friday evening me, Steven and 3 of his friends we took the train to Nanchang. Lao Lin guided us around
Poyang Lake
the 6 and 7 December for a budget of 1200 YUAN per day
included cost of the car (hotel and found not included) . We had a
very good weather but quite cold particularly Saturday. I saw a lot of
new species and first of all the 4 species of Crane:
Common Crane, Hooded Crane,
White-naped Crane, Siberian Crane. However the most impressive was the concentration of
Tundra Swan and Geeses:
Swan Goose,
Taiga Bean-Goose and
Greater White-fronted Goose are wintering here by thousands. The ducks are very numerous too but except the
Spot-billed Duck
and one Falcated Duck only saw by one person of the group, it's mainly
European species. In two days we saw more than 70 species and among
them:
Great Bittern which took me 5 minutes to find (!)
Oriental Stork,
Brown Crake, hundreds of
Spotted Redshank,
Common Snipe, 3 Kingfishers with one White-throated Kingfisher,
Oriental Skylark,
Buff-bellied Pipit ssp japonicus,
Long-tailed Shrike,
Marsh Grassbird,
Chinese Penduline-Tit,
Grey-capped Greenfinch and a lot of others!
I should not come again in China
but I had a lot of very good moments and I hope to be able to see again
Steven in his country or why not somewhere else! Thanks a lot to him
for this very good idea...